seastate du jour - 01/52 - 2021

A wave rolls in over a south-Gower reef during an acclaimed 'session of the year'. The strong northwesterly winds mixed with a solid groundswell lit-up our coastlines along south-Wales. I excitedly swam out with my wide-angle lens to make the most of the potential dramatic scenes. Despite the sea temperature being in single figures, I found the constant battling against the rip and trying to stay in a suitable (and safe) position ensured I stayed toasty warm. There were more surfers out at this spot than I had ever seen before. This provided not only an additional challenge but also for a huge number of photo opportunities. I swam back into shore with a memory card full of pictures, my foot recovering from cramp, and a huge smile across my face. What a session. A week later and I'm still trying to process all the photos and video footage.